AHA and BHA acids are the key to healthier skin and satisfaction.
AHA and BHA Acids
In recent years, the abbreviations AHA and BHA have been appearing more frequently on cosmetic labels. They may sound a bit scientific or complex, but they actually refer to natural acids that have a significant impact on the health and appearance of our skin. What exactly do AHA and BHA mean, how do they differ, and why do dermatologists and cosmetic experts swear by them?
At first glance, it might seem like another fashion trend in the world of skincare, but AHA (alpha hydroxy acids) and BHA (beta hydroxy acids) have a long tradition in scientifically-backed cosmetic care. Their effects were known to cosmetologists long before they went viral on social media. Today, they are becoming a regular part of the daily routine for many people who desire smoother, more even, and radiant skin.
What are AHA and BHA Acids?
Both groups of acids fall into the category of chemical exfoliants – substances that help remove dead skin cells, thereby promoting skin renewal. Unlike mechanical scrubs, which exfoliate the skin using granules, AHA and BHA act more gently and deeply. They are thus suitable even for more sensitive skin types when used correctly.
Alpha hydroxy acids (AHA) are water-soluble and act primarily on the surface of the skin. The most common ones include glycolic acid (from sugar cane), lactic acid (from milk or fermentation), and mandelic acid (from bitter almonds). AHA acids help with removing dead cells, improving skin texture, brightening, and softening fine lines.
Beta hydroxy acids (BHA) are fat-soluble and can penetrate deeper into the pores. The most well-known is salicylic acid, which acts as a strong anti-inflammatory and antibacterial agent. Thanks to its ability to clean clogged pores, it is particularly popular among people with oily skin, acne, or blackheads.
How to Determine Which Acid is Right for You?
There is no universal answer, as every skin is different. However, there are general guidelines that can help you navigate:
- If you have dry, dull, or aging skin, opt for AHA acids – they help remove flaky areas, increase hydration, and support collagen production.
- If you struggle with oily skin, enlarged pores, or acne, reach for BHA – salicylic acid penetrates deep into the pores and soothes inflammation.
- If you have sensitive skin, choose products with lower concentrations (such as 2% BHA or 5% AHA) and introduce them into your routine gradually.
Experts recommend starting with use 1–2 times a week and observing how your skin reacts. A common mistake is using them too quickly and too frequently, which can lead to irritation, redness, or disruption of the skin barrier.
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AHA and BHA in Daily Skincare
Incorporating AHA and BHA into your skincare routine is not as complicated as it might seem. Nowadays, they can be found in various forms – tonics, serums, masks, or night creams. However, it always applies: it's important to monitor the composition and concentration, and above all, to use quality products from trustworthy brands.
When using chemical exfoliants, it is essential to protect the skin from the sun. AHA increases the skin's sensitivity to UV radiation, so a cream with SPF 30 or higher should be a given. Even in winter.
It's also good to know that AHA and BHA acids do not mix well with some other active substances, such as retinol or vitamin C, especially if you are just starting to work with your skin. Simplicity is suitable – one exfoliant, one moisturizing cream, and sun protection can do more than ten products without a clear effect.
How Acids Changed Skin
Pavla, a thirty-year-old graphic designer from Brno, struggled with acne for many years. She tried almost everything – from natural masks to dermatological treatments. "It was only when I started using salicylic acid regularly that a miracle happened," she says. "My skin calmed down within a month, and the blackheads that troubled me since puberty literally disappeared." Today, she uses a gentle BHA toner every other day and never forgets SPF.
You'll find thousands of similar stories on the internet. Although it's important to take reviews with a grain of salt, they often help guide a person in the right direction. It's crucial to be patient – the effects of acids do not appear overnight, but with proper use, the result is stable and long-lasting.
Are Acids Suitable for Natural and Eco-Friendly Cosmetics?
A big question remains, how do AHA and BHA fit into the concept of natural skincare? The answer is surprisingly simple – many of these acids are of natural origin or are fermented, and therefore can be found even in natural or organic cosmetic products.
For example, lactic acid is obtained by fermenting sugar and is a common component of cosmetic products with clean formulations. Mandelic acid from bitter almonds is popular for its gentleness and suitability for sensitive or mature skin. Some brands specializing in natural care, such as Evolve Organic Beauty or Madara, offer effective exfoliating products without synthetic additives and fragrances.
Thanks to this, AHA and BHA acids are becoming a part of an eco-friendly and ethical lifestyle, where scientific knowledge merges with sustainability. Manufacturers today realize that it makes no sense to bring beauty at the expense of the planet's health – and that's why products are created that are effective yet gentle on the environment and our skin.
When Cosmetics Become a Ritual
Skincare is not just about technique and active ingredients. It's also about rituals that give us a sense of certainty, calm, and self-care. In a hectic world full of stress, an evening routine with a gentle exfoliating tonic and moisturizing serum can be a moment of peace – and a time when we devote ourselves solely to ourselves.
As dermatologist Whitney Bowe says: "Skincare is not superficial. It’s a way to show respect to the body that carries us every day." And AHA and BHA acids can be a great tool for that – if used with respect and awareness of their power.
Skin, like us, needs time, patience, and the right nourishment. And sometimes, a little chemical help from nature.
